Home Inspection Checklist: 20 Key Items Buyers Can't Miss

You finally found the house that feels right, but before the ink dries on the contract you need proof that the dream isn’t hiding a money pit. That’s the real purpose of a home inspection: confirm the property is safe, sound, and priced fairly, or give you the leverage to renegotiate and walk away with confidence. To guide you through the process, we’ve created a free, printable Home Inspection Checklist highlighting the 20 items that most often trigger expensive surprises.

Each point on the list is grouped by exterior, structural, mechanical, interior, and environmental systems, so you can follow along with your licensed inspector, take notes on a phone or clipboard, and spot red flags in real time. By knowing where water should flow, how electrical panels should be labeled, or why a hairline crack differs from a horizontal one, you’re no longer a passive observer—you’re an informed buyer ready to ask smart questions and protect every dollar of your investment.

Grab the PDF below and keep it handy as we break down each section in plain language and actionable tips.

1. Site & Grounds

Before you step inside, take a slow lap around the property. The way the land sheds water, supports hardscapes, and controls vegetation sets the tone for everything that follows in the inspection report. A poorly graded yard or an overgrown oak leaning on the roof can create foundation cracks, moldy siding, or a full-blown insurance claim down the road. Use the notes below to decide whether simple maintenance or a costly fix is in your future.

Grading & Drainage

• Ideal slope: about 6" drop over the first 10' away from the house.

• Red flags: standing puddles, mildew stripes on lower siding, white efflorescence on block or brick.

• Quick DIY test: place a marble (or run a garden hose) next to the foundation—if it doesn’t roll or flow away, plan on re-grading or adding French drains.

Driveways, Walkways & Hardscape

• Inspect cracks wider than ¼", surface spalling, or low spots where water ponds.

• Lifespans & costs:

  Material Typical Life Avg. Resurface Cost* Asphalt 20 yrs $3–$5 / sq ft Concrete 30 yrs $6–$10 / sq ft Pavers 30+ yrs Individual stone swap ($3–$6 each) *Central FL estimates, 2025.

• Safety first: uneven slabs create trip hazards—especially risky for kids, elders, or anyone wrangling groceries.

Vegetation & Trees

• Clearance goals: 5'–10' between foliage and siding; branches trimmed at least 8' above the roof.

• Risks: roots undermine footings, limbs scrape shingles, leaves clog gutters.

• Budget check: professional trim averages $450 per tree; full removal with stump grinding can exceed $2,000 for large species.

A quick walkthrough with these benchmarks turns the site and grounds from scenery into actionable data you can use at the negotiation table.

2. Foundation & Structural Frame

Nothing wrecks a deal faster than learning the “good bones” are actually brittle. That’s why the foundation and framing sit high on any serious home inspection checklist. Spend the extra time here—you’re looking for evidence of past movement, active movement, or moisture that could start a domino effect of repairs.

Foundation Walls & Slab

• Know your type: slab-on-grade, crawlspace, or full basement each has unique weak points.

• Crack hierarchy

  1. Hairline (≤1/16") vertical: typically shrinkage; monitor.

  2. Step-crack 1/16"–1/4" following mortar joints: moderate concern—seal and watch.

  3. Horizontal or widening >1/4": potential lateral pressure; call a structural engineer.

• Bowing walls: measure with a 4-ft level; >1/2" deflection spells trouble.

• Quick test: slide a numbered crack gauge/ruler over the widest point and photograph the reading for the report.

Framing & Load-Bearing Walls

Interior clues often shout what the exterior whispers. Open and close every door and window:

• Sticky or misaligned doors can indicate racked framing.

• Ceiling cracks fanning from corners or sloping floors (>1/2" in 10 ft) hint at settling or joist issues.

• Common materials:

  • Dimensional lumber—susceptible to termites and rot.

  • Engineered I-joists—strong but lose capacity when notched or drilled incorrectly.
    DIY roofline check: step back across the street and look for dips, waves, or swagger in the ridges; sagging often points to overloaded rafters or removed walls.

Basement or Crawlspace Moisture

Water is the enemy of everything structural:

• Warning signs: earthy smell, white efflorescence, rusted steel posts, or fungal growth on joists.

• Must-have defenses

  • 6-mil polyethylene vapor barrier covering 100 % of the crawlspace soil.

  • Sump pump with battery backup in basements.

  • Perimeter (French) drains routing water at least 10 ft from footings.

• If mold is present, remediation in Central Florida averages $3–$6 per square foot; full encapsulation can reach $10 k+.

Document any of these findings with clear photos and dimensions so you can decide whether to negotiate credits, demand repairs, or walk away before the cracks in the foundation become cracks in your budget.

3. Roof & Attic Spaces

When it rains in Central Florida, it pours—and the roof is the only thing standing between your new investment and thousands in water damage. A worn covering, clogged gutters, or a suffocating attic can allow moisture to drip into insulation, short-out wiring, and invite mold. Because replacement costs can soar past $12,000, the roof portion of your home inspection checklist deserves slow, deliberate scrutiny from ground level, ladder, and attic hatch.

Roof Covering Condition

• Lifespans to remember

  Material Expected Service Life Common Failure Signs 3-Tab Asphalt 15–20 yrs Missing tabs, curling edges Architectural Asphalt 20–25 yrs Granule loss, bald spots Metal (standing seam) 40–70 yrs Exposed screws, rust at seams Concrete/Clay Tile 50+ yrs Cracked tiles, slipped pieces

• Verify installation date: ask the seller for permits or invoices; match serial numbers on shingle bundles if spares are stored.

• Scan from the ground with binoculars, then eye ridge lines for dips and look for flashing protrusions that appear lifted or rusty.

Gutters, Downspouts & Flashing

Proper water routing extends both roof and foundation life.

• Downspout extensions should discharge 4'–6' away from the slab—no exceptions in our sandy soil.

• Red flags: joint leaks, tiger-stripe staining, vegetation sprouts, or gutters tilting toward the fascia.

• Flashing checkpoints

  • Kick-out flashing at roof-wall intersections to divert water.

  • Step flashing tucked under each shingle where roof meets siding or chimney.

  • Rubber boots around vent pipes free of cracks or UV breakdown.

Attic Insulation & Ventilation

The attic tells the truth about what’s happening above. Pop the hatch and look for:

• Insulation depth: Central Florida’s sweet spot is R-38 (≈13" of blown fiberglass). Any voids or compressed areas mean higher utility bills.

• Ventilation balance: roughly 1 sq ft of net free vent area per 300 sq ft of attic floor when soffit and ridge vents are both present. Signs of poor airflow include frost in winter, temp spikes in summer, or coffee-colored plywood.

• Critter clues: shredded batts, acorn piles, or gnawed Romex warrant a pest pro and an electrician.

Document these observations with photos and temperature or moisture readings; solid evidence strengthens your negotiation if the roof or attic needs immediate attention.

4. Exterior Envelope: Siding, Windows & Doors

Think of the exterior envelope as the home’s raincoat and sunscreen combined: it blocks wind-driven water, scorching UV rays, and wandering pests. Any tear in that shell lets moisture creep into framing where rot and mold multiply unseen. Before getting distracted by curb appeal, give each surface a finger-on-the-material check and jot notes in the checklist—small gaps here can snowball into five-figure repairs later.

Siding & Trim

Vinyl, fiber-cement, wood, and stucco all fail in different ways, so use a systematic scan:

• Probe soft spots on wood or trim with a screwdriver; spongy areas signal rot or carpenter ants.

• On stucco, hairline cracks under 1/16" are cosmetic; bulges or horizontal cracks can hide sheathing rot.

• Fiber-cement should have a 2" clearance above roofing and 6" above grade—less invites wicking.

• Vinyl should lie flat with room to “float”; bowed panels suggest improper nailing or heat distortion.

Maintenance cheat sheet for Central Florida:

Material Re-Caulk Joints Repaint/Seal Typical Life Span Wood Lap 2 yrs 5 yrs 30 yrs+ with care Fiber-Cement 5 yrs 8 yrs 50 yrs Stucco (painted) 7 yrs 10 yrs 60 yrs

Windows & Door Frames

Operational windows do more than frame a view—they seal conditioned air and keep water out. Open every sash: if it sticks, the frame may be racked or swollen. Look for:

• Fogged insulated glass units (IGUs) = failed seals and energy loss.

• Rot in lower sills, especially on north or shaded walls.

• Missing drip caps above trim; a $20 flashing strip prevents $2,000 in sill repairs.
  Cost snapshot: swapping a single vinyl sash starts around $350; full-frame composites often top $900 each.

Decks, Porches & Railings

Deck collapses make headlines because ledger boards weren’t flashed or lag-bolted correctly. During the walk-around:

• Verify the ledger has metal flashing tucked behind siding—no flashing, no deal.

• Joist hangers should contain all nails; rusted or missing fasteners are red flags.

• Rails: baluster spacing under 4", handrail height 34"–38" above tread.

• Check stair stringers: untreated ends touching soil accelerate rot.

A shaky deck, leaky window, or neglected paint line may look minor today, but it’s future leverage for your offer—or the cue to keep shopping.

5. Core Mechanical Systems

After curb appeal lures you in, the mechanicals decide how much you’ll really pay to live there. Replacing a furnace, re-piping a house, or rewiring a dated panel can wipe out a budget faster than closing-day champagne. As you work through this part of the home inspection checklist, focus on age, safety compliance, and visible signs of neglect.

Plumbing Supply & Drain Lines

1. Identify materials:

   • Copper or PEX = thumbs-up for longevity.

   • Galvanized steel = corrosion risk; expect low pressure and pinhole leaks.

   • Polybutylene (gray, stamped “PB2110”) = class-action failure material—plan on full replacement.

2. Quick pressure check: turn on the tub, kitchen sink, and outdoor spigot simultaneously; if flow drops noticeably, the pipes may be constricted.

3. Scan cabinets and ceilings beneath bathrooms for stains, warped particleboard, or moldy odors.

4. Slow drains + gurgling sounds point to vent blockages or sagging lines.

Typical re-pipe costs in Central FL: $3–$5 per sq ft for PEX; double for copper.

Electrical Panel, Wiring & Outlets

• Panel brand audit: Federal Pacific, Zinsco, and Bulldog Pushmatic panels carry documented fire risks—budget $1,800–$2,500 for an upgrade.

• Amperage: 100 amps is the practical floor for modern appliances; a 60-amp service is a deal-breaker for most insurers.

• Confirm GFCI protection within 6' of water (kitchens, baths, exterior) and AFCI breakers in bedrooms.

• Remove panel cover (inspector only) to spot aluminum branch wiring or double-tapped breakers.

HVAC Furnace / Air Handler & AC

Component Average Life Red-Flag Clues Quick Test Gas Furnace 15–20 yrs Rusted heat exchanger, short cycling Measure temp rise: ∆T 35°–55°F Heat Pump / AC 12–15 yrs Ice on lines, oil stains at compressor Check ΔT across coil: 15°–20°F Ductwork 25 yrs Missing insulation, disconnected boots Feel for air leaks at joints

Ask the inspector to decode serial numbers for manufacture dates, then compare to maintenance stickers. Dirty filters, soot marks, or nests inside outdoor units signal overdue servicing.

Water Heater Age & Safety

• Use the serial number to verify age; anything over 12 years is on borrowed time.

• Safety checklist: intact TPR valve, ¾" discharge pipe terminating 6" from floor, corrosion-free nipples, and a drip pan with drain.

• In seismic zones, tanks require double metal straps—still smart practice in Florida for storm movement.

• Indicators of failure: rusty shutdowns, rumbling (sediment), or moisture at the burner door.

Replacement math: a 50-gallon electric unit runs $1,000–$1,400 installed; tankless gas starts around $2,500 but saves energy long-term.

Document every serial number, defect, and service sticker—these hard numbers translate directly into negotiation leverage.

6. Interior Spaces & Surfaces

Scuffed paint or a chipped tile might seem like small-potatoes, yet interior blemishes often signal hidden structural or moisture problems. As you move room to room with the home inspection checklist in hand, ignore the décor and look for repeating patterns—stains that line up under a bathroom, floors that slope toward one corner, or hairline cracks that form a stair-step shape. Patterns reveal causes, and causes cost money.

Floors, Walls & Ceilings

• Walk every surface in socked feet; you’ll feel soft spots or sudden slopes better than in shoes.

• Cracked tiles, lifting laminate, or wavy baseboards can indicate subfloor rot or framing movement.

• Use a flashlight held parallel to walls to highlight bulging drywall or nail pops.

• Ceiling stains: press a moisture meter (<15% is usually dry). No meter? Use tissue paper—if it sticks, the leak is active.

• Settlement cracks are typically vertical and straight; seasonal movement cracks are hairline and close on their own when humidity rises.

Kitchen & Bathroom Fixtures & Appliances

• Run hot and cold water at every fixture; watch drains for speed and listen for gurgling that hints at vent issues.

• Open sink cabinets: look for green or white mineral deposits around shut-off valves.

• Turn on the dishwasher and range briefly; confirm the range has an anti-tip bracket installed.

• Switch on exhaust fans and hold a square of toilet paper to the grille—if it drops, airflow is insufficient or the vent terminates in the attic (a mold magnet).

Stairs, Railings & Safety Devices

• Treads and risers should vary less than 3⁄8" in height or depth—uneven steps are a trip lawsuit waiting to happen.

• Grasp railings firmly; any wobble demands lag screws or blocking.

• Check headroom: 6'8" minimum per IRC.

• Press test buttons on smoke and CO detectors and note manufacture dates; anything older than 10 years needs replacing.

• Basement or bonus-room bedrooms must have egress windows at least 20" x 24" clear opening and no higher than 44" off the floor—no window, no legal bedroom.

A careful sweep of these interior details adds context to the big-ticket findings and rounds out a rock-solid negotiation package.

7. Fire, Safety & Environmental Hazards

Some defects don’t drip, squeak, or crack — they lurk in the background until they threaten health or insurance eligibility. Because these issues often trigger “walk-away” clauses or costly remediation, give them the same attention you just gave the roof and foundation. Keep a CO monitor in your toolkit, respirator at the ready, and this part of the home inspection checklist open as you tour.

Fireplaces, Chimneys & Flues

• Wood-burning units accumulate creosote after as little as one cord of wood; anything over ⅛" thickness requires cleaning.

• Shine a flashlight up the flue: glazed creosote, cracked clay tiles, or missing chimney caps invite chimney fires and wildlife.

• Gas inserts should vent combustion gases fully outdoors; smell for faint sulfur or use a low-level CO detector for confirmation.

• NFPA recommends a Level 2 inspection when a home is sold, especially for multi-story chimneys or after seismic events. Expect $300–$500.

Pest & Termite Evidence

Tiny insects can collapse a deal faster than a bad appraisal. Look for:

• Mud tubes along foundation walls or joists (subterranean termites).

• Pin-sized exit holes plus sawdust-like frass (carpenter ants).

• Hollow-sounding wood when tapped with a screwdriver handle.
  A certified Wood-Destroying Organism (WDO) inspection in Central Florida averages $125–$225 and is often required by lenders.

Radon, Asbestos, Lead & Mold

Hazard Action Level / Age Flag Typical Test Cost Remediation Range Radon ≥ 4.0 pCi/L (EPA) $150 $1,000–$1,500 (mitigation system) Asbestos Homes pre-1980 $250 (bulk sample) $3–$7 / sq ft Lead-Based Paint Built before 1978 $200 (XRF scan) $8–$15 / sq ft Mold Visible growth or musty odor $250 (air samples) $3–$6 / sq ft

Radon levels can spike even in slab-on-grade Florida homes, so a 48-hour test is cheap peace of mind. Asbestos hides in popcorn ceilings, HVAC tape, and old vinyl flooring; disturbing it during renovations multiplies costs. Lead paint chips endanger kids and may require EPA-certified abatement crews. Mold thrives where previous sections revealed moisture; verify humidity readings and air-sample results before closing.

Spotting these silent deal-breakers early lets you negotiate remediation credits or pivot to a safer property without missing a beat.

8. Inspection Day Game Plan & Toolkit

Inspection day moves fast—most buyers get a two-hour window to see every nook and cranny while the inspector works. Arrive early, checklist in hand, so you’re not scrambling for a flashlight when the attic hatch pops or trying to remember a question once the panel cover is off.

A simple plan—gear, etiquette, and a triage system—turns that short visit into actionable data you can reference long after the seller’s perfume candles burn out.

Must-Have Tools & Apps

Pack light but smart:

• LED flashlight or headlamp

• Three-prong outlet/GFCI tester

• Moisture meter (pinless is fine)

• Telescoping ladder (if allowed)

• Infrared thermometer for HVAC vents

• Smartphone with voice notes + 5× zoom camera

• Digital checklist app (Google Sheets) synced to the free printable PDF of this 20-item home inspection checklist

Snap serial numbers, tag locations, and store everything in a labeled album—no more “Which breaker was double-tapped?” later.

How to Shadow the Inspector Professionally

Follow, don’t hover. Ask at natural pauses, not while they’re on a ladder. Three high-value questions:

1. “What’s the expected lifespan of this component?”

2. “Is this a safety or maintenance issue?”

3. “If it were your house, would you fix or monitor it?”

Keep a respectful six-foot buffer, wear closed-toe shoes, and let the pro remove panels or walk the roof.

Real-Time Red Flag Assessment

Use a quick color code in your notes:

• Red – safety/habitability (e.g., active leaks, missing GFCIs)

• Yellow – near-term maintenance (roof at end-of-life)

• Green – cosmetic (paint scuffs)

Deal-breaker vs negotiable? If it impacts structure, safety, or systems that cost five figures—walk or demand major concessions. Everything else becomes leverage for repair credits or price drops. This on-the-fly triage keeps emotions in check and negotiations on point.

9. Interpreting Results & Negotiating Repairs

The inspection report is more than weekend reading—it’s a roadmap for protecting your wallet. Once the pages hit your inbox, resist the urge to highlight every blemish. Instead, zoom out, group issues logically, then decide whether to ask for repairs, a credit, or a price cut. A disciplined system keeps negotiations objective and prevents the deal from stalling over chipped paint.

Prioritize: Safety, Moisture, Lifespan, Cosmetic

Start by dropping every finding from your home inspection checklist into one of four buckets:

Bucket Typical Examples Negotiation Urgency Safety Double-tapped breaker, missing GFCI, loose railing High Moisture Active roof leak, wet crawlspace High Lifespan 18-year-old HVAC, 23-year-old shingle roof Medium Cosmetic Scuffed walls, dated fixtures Low

Focus on the first three; cosmetics rarely sway sellers and might irritate them.

Crafting Repair Requests or Price Concessions

Leverage the inspector’s exact wording and photos. A concise request looks like this:

“Replace missing kick-out flashing at east wall (pg. 12, photo 4). Licensed roofer to provide invoice prior to closing.”

Keep it to a bulleted list, group similar items, and avoid emotional language. Sellers typically respond in three ways:

1. Fix before closing (with receipts).

2. Offer a credit at settlement.

3. Decline.

When a seller declines, counter with a dollar figure tied to a contractor bid—hard numbers beat estimates from thin air.

When to Bring in Specialists

If the report flags big-ticket uncertainties—foundation movement, knob-and-tube wiring, or suspected polybutylene pipes—call in a pro:

• Structural engineer: $400–$700

• Master electrician: $150–$300 for detailed panel evaluation

• HVAC tech: $125–$200 for load calculations

Specialist findings can justify a larger concession or, in worst cases, trigger your inspection contingency to exit the contract. Either way, the added $200–$700 for second opinions often nets four- or five-figure savings.

By ranking problems, presenting clear evidence, and knowing when to escalate, you turn a dense report into negotiation leverage that keeps the purchase aligned with both your budget and your comfort level.

Quick Wrap-Up

A solid home inspection isn’t just a formality—it’s the cheapest insurance you’ll ever buy. By walking through the 20 key checkpoints we covered—site grading, foundation, roof, exterior envelope, core mechanicals, interior finishes, and environmental hazards—you’ll surface hidden defects, estimate future expenses, and negotiate from a position of strength. Keep the printable checklist handy, mark red-flag items in real time, then use the report to prioritize safety and moisture issues first, lifespan concerns second, and cosmetics last.

Remember, most problems are fixable; the real question is who pays. When you know the difference between a sagging ledger board and a scuffed baseboard, you control that conversation.

If you’re buying in Central Florida and want an experienced ally to interpret inspection findings, line up contractors, and craft airtight repair addendums, the boutique team at Robert Michael & Co. is just a call or click away. We’ll help you turn today’s walkthrough into tomorrow’s worry-free closing.